this week in lectures, signings, panel discussions, workshops, and Q&As

PORTRAYING THE HUMAN CONDITION: THE FILMS OF MASAKI KOBAYASHI AND TATSUYA NAKADAI

Kaji (Tatsuya Nakadai) has to search hard to find the humanity in the world (photo © Shochiku Co., Ltd.)

Kaji (Tatsuya Nakadai) has to search hard to find the humanity in the world in Masaki Kobayashi three-part masterpiece (photo © Shochiku Co., Ltd.)

THE HUMAN CONDITION (Masaki Kobayashi, 1959-61)
Museum of the Moving Image
35th Ave. at 36th St., Astoria
Part I: Saturday, May 16, $15, 1:00
Part II: Saturday, May 16, $12, 6:00
Part III: Sunday, May 17, $12, 1:00
Series runs May 15-24
718-777-6800
www.movingimage.us

Masako Kobayashi’s ten-hour epic, The Human Condition, based on a popular novel by Jumpei Gomikawa, is one of the most stunning achievements ever captured on film, and you can catch it all this weekend at the Museum of the Moving Image. Shot over the course of three years, the film follows one man’s harrowing struggle to never give up his humanity as he is dragged deeper and deeper into the morass of WWII. Tatsuya Nakadai is remarkable as Kaji, a man who believes in common decency, personal discipline, and, above all else, that humanity will always triumph. In the first part, No Greater Love, the steadfastly practical Kaji is hesitant to marry his sweetheart, Michiko (Michiyo Aratama), for fear that he will be called to serve in the Japanese army and might not come back to her alive. But when his detailed plan to treat workers fairly is accepted by the government, he is made labor supervisor of a mine in far-off Southern Manchuria, where hundreds of Chinese prisoners are brought in as well — and regularly starved, beaten, and, on occasion, brutally killed in cold blood. Kaji’s methods, which have close ties to communism, leading many to refer to him as a “Red,” anger both sides — the Japanese want to treat the workers like animals, and the Chinese prisoners don’t trust that he has their welfare in mind. A series of escape attempts threatens the stability of the labor camp and comes between Kaji and Michiko, whose undying love is echoed in the yearning, unfulfilled desire between a Korean prisoner and a Japanese prostitute. Broken promises, lies, and betrayal reach a tense conclusion that sets the stage for the second part of Kobayashi’s masterpiece.

Michiyo Aratama and Tatsuya Nakadai hope that love trumps all in antiwar epic (photo © Shochiku Co., Ltd.)

Michiyo Aratama and Tatsuya Nakadai hope that love trumps all in antiwar epic (photo © Shochiku Co., Ltd.)

SPOILER ALERT: Skip the next paragraph if you don’t want to know what happens in parts II & III!

In Road to Eternity, Kaji has been drafted into the Kwantung Army, going through basic training in preparation for battle. Kaji hopes to find some semblance of humanity in the army, but the superiors are constantly slapping and hitting the recruits, punishing them in brutal ways. When Michiko suddenly shows up, Kaji suffers harassment as it is being decided whether he will be allowed to spend the night with her. With the Soviets on the march, a firefight beckons, but the Japanese troops are woefully short on weapons and ammunition — and confidence, with rumors of Japan’s demise rampant. The epic concludes with the powerful, emotional A Soldier’s Prayer. Kaji is determined to make it back to Michiko, even if it means desertion, but a long, treacherous trip awaits him and he is dangerously low on supplies. He is trying desperately to hang on to his dignity and humanity, but it becomes more and more difficult as the weather worsens, hopelessly lost people join him through the forest, and food is nowhere in sight.

The Human Condition, which has had a profound influence on such filmmakers as Stanley Kubrick, Steven Spielberg, Andrei Tarkovsky, and so many others, might take place during WWII, with Japan fighting for the Axis powers while also immersed in the Second Sino-Japanese War, but its story about man’s inhumanity to man is timeless. At its core, it’s not about Fascism, socialism, democracy, and ethnocentricity but humankind’s need for love and truth. Kaji and Michiko represent everyman and everywoman, separated by a cruel, cold world. Kobayashi provides no answers — the future he envisions is bleak indeed. At Film Forum a few years back for a tribute to his career, Nakadai talked about how brutal the making of The Human Condition was — it is also brutal to sit through, but it is a landmark work that must be seen. All three parts of the film are being shown May 16-17 at the Museum of the Moving Image in “Portraying the Human Condition: The Films of Masaki Kobayashi and Tatsuya Nakadai,” a ten-day series of nine works the pair made together, including Black River, The Inheritance, Kwaidan, Samurai Rebellion, Strike a Life for Nothing, and Harakiri. Nakadai will be at the museum to discuss his work at the May 16 screening of No Greater Love and the May 24 showing of Harakiri.

A SECRET AFFAIR: SELECTIONS FROM THE FUHRMAN FAMILY COLLECTION

(photo by twi-ny/mdr)

Ron Mueck’s ultra-realistic “Spooning Couple” is part of “A Secret Affair” at FLAG (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

The FLAG Art Foundation
545 West 25th St. between Ninth & Tenth Aves.
Wednesday through Saturday through May 16, free, 11:00 am – 5:00 pm
212-206-0220
flagartfoundation.org

The name of the current exhibit at the FLAG Art Foundation, “A Secret Affair,” conjures thoughts of clandestine coupling. Indeed, the show, which continues through May 16, features works that explore, both as physical objects and conceptual ideas, the notion of pairs, of the double, built around what senior curator Heather Pesanti refers to in her catalog essay, “The Subversive Body,” as “meditations on the most primal and basic emotional need in life: that of human connection.” Spread across two floors of the Chelsea gallery, “A Secret Affair: Selections from the Fuhrman Family Collection” consists primarily of sculptures, along with several C-prints, that are either partnered within themselves or with another piece, by the same or a different artist. The subjects in Ron Mueck’s ultra-realistic but miniature “Two Women,” a pair of older women in heavy coats standing together but looking away, might recall fondly, or jealously, the nearby “Spooning Couple,” in which a partially naked man and woman spoon each other on a hard surface representing a bed. Meanwhile, not far away, Subodh Gupta offers a counterpart, “Spooning,” a sculpture of two large-scale stainless-steel spoons one on top of the other. In Juan Muñoz’s “Two Laughing at Each Other,” a pair of men sit in chairs halfway up a wall, not far from Maurizio Cattelan’s “Frank and Jamie,” two life-size wax figures of New York City policemen standing on their heads. In Louise Bourgeois’s “Couple,” a naked and armless man and woman, in pink fabric, face each other in a vitrine, belly to belly, while Yinka Shonibare’s “Girl Girl Ballerina” depicts a pair of headless female figures wearing colorfully patterned fabrics, hiding guns behind their backs. Gillian Wearing’s lifelike “Olia,” a topless model in jeans, finds its counterpoint in Marc Quinn’s “Sphinx (Fortuna),” a painted bronze sculpture of Kate Moss in a seemingly impossible pose. And Thomas Schütte’s patinated bronze and steel busts, “Wicht (4)” and “Wicht (7),” are on plinths next to each other, a pair of mysterious, already fading figures.

(photo by twi-ny/mdr)

Fuhrman Family Collection exhibition focuses on doubling and human connection (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

Even the single pieces in the exhibition, curated by Louis Grachos, deal with pairs. “I decided that the exhibition would focus on interrelated themes concerning the body and the figure, as well as coupling and conversation,” Grachos explains in his catalog foreword. In Charles Ray’s “Light from the Left,” the artist offers flowers to a woman, trying to make a connection. In Katharana Fritsch’s “Oktopus,” an orange cephalopod mollusc holds aloft a faceless human figure in black in one of its tentacles. Felix Gonzalez-Torres’s 1995 untitled work comprises two silver-plated brass rings flat against a wall, touching each other, evoking the magician’s trick as well as the prize one can win on a merry-go-round. Anish Kapoor’s “Blood Solid,” a red balloon-like sculpture that resembles a huge drop of blood, invites viewers to see their reflection in it, their own double. There are also works by Matthew Barney, Kiki Smith, Robert Gober, Jim Lambie, David Hammons, and Jim Hodges that provide yet more insight on the theme. In conjunction with Frieze week’s Chelsea Night, Hodges, whose “picturing: my heart” dual skulls and “First Light (Beginning of the End)” mirrored glass pieces are on display at FLAG, will be at the gallery on May 16 at 5:00 for a special closing conversation with FLAG founder Glenn Fuhrman, who owns the collection with his wife, Amanda.

FRIEZE ART FAIR WEEK 2015

(photo by twi-ny/mdr)

The art world will descend on Randall’s Island for the Frieze Art Fair this week (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

FRIEZE ART FAIR
Randall’s Island Park
May 14-17, $28-$109
friezenewyork.com

The giant white tents of the Frieze Art Fair will cover Randall’s Island once again for four days in May, promising crowds of eager patrons and onlookers both provocative, astonishing, world-class, expensive art and a group of often delightful, sometimes mystifying, occasionally participatory projects, as well as superlative people-watching and classy eats. Those looking to acquire museum-level works can check out the booths of Marian Goodman, which features the work of Giuseppe Penone, a member of the Italian Arte Povera group; or Paul Kasmin, who has works by Sigmar Polke, Iván Navarro, Jules Olitski, and Laylah Ali on its temporary walls. Matthew Marks will show lots of Nan Goldin and Paul Sietsema; Cheim & Read has Ghada Amer, Louise Bourgeois, and Lynda Benglis; Yoko Ono is at Galerie Lelong; and fans of German painting can choose from Martin Eder, David Schnell, and Melora Kuhn at Eigen + Art. With more than two hundred galleries, Frieze can be overwhelming, but there’s an app to download here and sustenance provided by high-end dining-scene stalwarts Frankie’s Sputino, Milk Bar, Prime Meats, and Roberta’s, among others.

Performance art and an outdoor sculpture garden are part of annual Frieze fair (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

Performance projects and an outdoor sculpture garden are part of annual Frieze Art Fair (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

We enjoy the Frieze projects immensely; you can see our video with Marie Lorenz here, as we exited the fair in a rather unique way. This year, there seems to be a theme; two projects boast mazelike layouts and a third is highlighted by a hidden subterranean chamber. Japanese-born Aki Sasamoto makes his maze into a sort of personality test and multiple-choice questionnaire via a series of rooms and doors (shades of Door Number Two and Let’s Make a Deal, perhaps?) while the Flux-Labyrinth reconceives George Maciunas’s 1975 Fluxus work as a participatory set of narrow corridors and mysterious door handles. Korakrit Arunanondchai’s massage chairs and Pia Camil’s free fabric giveaways add to fairgoers’ fun. Los Angeles-based artist Samara Golden’s secret room beneath the fair reveals the working underbelly of pillars, electric cables, and air-conditioning vents — vents that we fervently hope work very well as the enormous crowds descend on this, one of twi-ny’s all-time favorite New York art fairs. Below are some of the special programs at Frieze, as well as information about the other fairs in town this week.

Thursday, May 14
Frieze Talks: ‘Some may like a soft Brazilian singer,’ with Christian Jankowski, featuring the music of Caetano Veloso, 4:00

Friday, May 15
‘Aesthetics’ of ‘Female’ ‘Attractiveness,’ with Casey Jane Ellison, Grace Dunham, Reina Gossett, Karley Sciortino, and Leilah Weinraub, 12 noon

Saturday, May 16
‘Ask Jerry,’ with Jerry Saltz, 12 noon

Sunday, May 17
Paul McCarthy & Leigh Ledare in conversation with Chrissie Iles, 12 midday

COLLECTIVE DESIGN FAIR
Skylight Clarkson Sq.
550 Washington St.
May 13-17, $15-$25
collectivedesignfair.com

Saturday, May 16
“Witness to the Future: Vladimir Kagan and Michael Boodro in Conversation,” 2:30

Sunday, May 17
“Among Friends: The Collaborative Practice and Ongoing Influence of Isamu Noguchi,” 1:00

NADA NEW YORK 2015
Basketball City, 299 South St. at the East River
May 14-17, free
newartdealers.org

Thursday, May 14
“Tachyon Path,” a musical piece composed by Jay Israelson, 6:00

Friday, May 15
Regina Rex presents “Selections from Sports Closet,” a performance by Alina Tenser, 1:00 & 5:00

Sunday, May 17
“On Connectivity,” a discussion with artists from the New Museum’s 2015 Triennial: “Surround Audience,” 3:00

ART MIAMI NEW YORK
Pier 94, 12th Ave. at 55th St.
May 14-17, $15-$25 (multiday pass $55)
www.artmiaminewyork.com

Friday, May 15
Artist Spotlight: “The Diamond,” with Iftah Geva and Gal Goldner, 1:00

Saturday, May 16
“Bad Collector — A Primer on What Not to Do,” with Karen Boyer, Albina De Meio, James Kober, and Samuel Pugatch, 2:00

Book Signing with Acclaimed Photographer & Stylist Marisol, Post-Modern Booth #B19, 3:00 – 6:00

Sunday, May 17
Artist Spotlight: Alexander Zakharov — Exploring New Media Art,” 1:00

SELECT
Center 548, 548 West 22nd St. St.
May 14-17, $10-$20 (multiday pass $25)
www.select-fair.com

Saturday, May 16
“Freedom of Press?” with Lori Cole, Christopher Howard, Aruna D’Souza, and Colleen Asper, moderated by Dushko Petrovich, Select Lounge, third floor, 2:00

Sunday, May 17
“Digital Objects,” with Zoë Salditch, Greg Borenstein, Andrea Wolf, Marco Antonini, and Siebren Versteeg, moderated by Yin Ho, Select Lounge, third floor, 2:00

FRIDGE ART FAIR
Retro Bar & Grill at the Holiday Inn
150 Delancey St.
May 14-17, free
www.fridgeartfair.com

1:54 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR
Pioneer Works
159 Pioneer St., Red Hook
May 15-17, $5-$10 ($25 with catalog)
1-54.com/new-york

Friday, May 15
Keynote Address: “Black Aesthetics Unbound,” Margo Natalie Crawford, 1:30

Saturday, May 16
“Breaking the Ice,” with Christian Haye and Melvin Edwards, moderated by Ugochukwu-Smooth C. Nzewi, 3:00

SOUNDS LIKE MUSIC — THE FILMS OF MARTIN REJTMAN: TWO SHOTS FIRED

TWO SHOTS FIRED

Life goes on after a bizarre shooting event in Martín Rejtman’s absurdist TWO SHOTS FIRED

TWO SHOTS FIRED (DOS DISPAROS) (Martín Rejtman, 2014)
Film Society of Lincoln Center, Elinor Bunin Munroe Film Center
Howard Gilman Theater / Francesca Beale Theater
144 West 65th St. between Broadway & Amsterdam Aves.
May 13-19
212-875-5601
www.filmlinc.com
www.cinematropical.com

Last year, award-winning Argentine writer-director Martín Rejtman returned with his first film in eight years (and only his fourth feature in his nearly thirty-year career), the absurdist black comedy Two Shots Fired. The calmly paced story begins as sixteen-year-old Mariano (Rafael Federman), after a night of dancing, goes about his daily chores, swimming laps in his family’s backyard pool (as the dog runs alongside him) and mowing the lawn. He shows no emotion when he accidentally runs over the mower’s electric cord; instead he simply goes into the house for tools to fix it. There he also finds a box with a gun, so he goes into his room, puts the gun against his head, and pulls the trigger, like it’s a perfectly normal thing to do. He then places the barrel against his stomach and shoots himself a second time. The first shot merely grazes his temple, while the second shot seems to have left a bullet lodged in his body. Mariano evenhandedly claims that he is not depressed and was not trying to kill himself, and his friends and family essentially act as if nothing has happened, going on with their simple, ordinary lives. The only ones who appear to be even the slightest bit concerned are his mother (Susana Pampin), who secretly hides all the scissors and kitchen knives, and the dog, who runs away.

When Mariano attempts to go anywhere with his brother (Benjamín Coelho) that involves passing through a metal detector, the system beeps at him; when his brother tries to explain that it must be because there is a bullet in him, Mariano doesn’t care, opting not to enter, instead waiting outside without complaining, explaining, or making a scene. When he practices with his woodwind quartet, his recorder releases a second note every time he plays, presumably the result of the lodged bullet, but he continues on, like it’s no big deal. And when his cell phone incessantly goes off, he doesn’t get mad or embarrassed; he simply tries to find a place to put it where it won’t disturb him or anyone else. He, and everyone around him, including a potential girlfriend (Manuela Martelli) and his music teacher (Laura Paredes), just keep on keeping on, going about their business, virtually emotionless. They’re not trying to forget what happened; instead, it’s like it is just another part of daily existence in this Buenos Aires suburb. A minimalist, Rejtman first focuses his camera on a place, then doesn’t move it as characters walk in and some kind of “action,” however critical or monotonous, takes place; then the people leave the frame as the camera lingers, like Ozu on Valium. What happens is just as important, or unimportant, as what doesn’t happen. Every scene is treated the same, a meditation on the mundanity of life (with perhaps more than a passing reference to how Argentina has dealt with los desaparecidos and its long-running volatile political climate). And just like life, parts of the film are boring, parts are wildly funny, parts are unpredictable, and parts are, well, just parts of life. A selection of the 52nd New York Film Festival, Two Shots Fired is having its official U.S. theatrical release May 13-19 at Lincoln Center in conjunction with “Sounds Like Music: The Films of Martín Rejtman,” with Rejtman on hand for Q&As following the 6:30 screenings on May 13 and 15. The one-week festival also includes Rejtman’s Elementary Training for Actors, The Magic Gloves, Rapado, and Silvia Prieto.

ONE CUT, ONE LIFE

Lucia Small and Ed Pincus in ONE CUT, ONE LIFE

Lucia Small and Ed Pincus team up to film the end of his time on Earth in ONE CUT, ONE LIFE (photo by Danielle Morgan)

ONE CUT, ONE LIFE (Lucia Small & Ed Pincus, 2014)
IFC Center
323 Sixth Ave. at West Third St.
Opens Wednesday, May 13
212-924-7771
www.ifccenter.com
onecutonelife.com

When documentarian and flower farmer Ed Pincus, considered the father of first-person film, was diagnosed with a terminal illness, he did what he had done previously in his life: turn the camera on himself. Teaming up with Lucia Small (My Father, the Genius), with whom he had made the post-Katrina nonfiction film The Axe in the Attic in 2007, Pincus (Black Natchez, Diaries [1971–1976]) shared the intimate details of his story as they compiled what would become One Cut, One Life, named for a Japanese Aikido philosophy that means “Everything could be the last time,” “Everything counts,” “Everything has meaning.” Not everyone was thrilled with Pincus’s decision; in particular, Jane, his wife of fifty years, had severe reservations about his making a film with death on the horizon. But in her director’s statement, Small explains, “Rather than slowing us down, Ed’s illness created a flurry of creative work, as well as the impetus to delve into difficult emotional territory. We wrote [in a grant application], ‘When he is filming, he easily immerses himself into something productive, something that extends his creative life. Making another film offers a much-needed crucial distance from his potential fate.’” Pincus died in November 2013, but One Cut, One Life lives on, to show how he faced the end. The film opens Wednesday, May 13, at the IFC Center, and the first week will feature a series of special discussions at select shows. On May 13 at 7:15, “Celebrating Ed Pincus’s Life and Legacy: Pushing Boundaries — Up Close and Personal” brings together Small, Michel Negroponte, Marco Williams, and moderator Tom Roston. On May 14 at 7:15, Small, Nina Davenport, and Judith Helfand will delve into “Female Voice and First Person Non-Fiction.” On May 15 at 7:50, Liz Giamatti will talk about “The Art of Collaboration: Trauma, Loss, and Creative Partnership.” The 7:50 screening on May 18 will be followed by a Q&A with Small. And on May 19 at 7:50, Judith Schwarz explores “The Reality of Being Mortal: End of Life, Quality of Life, and Navigating Options.”

TICKET ALERT: NEW YORK COMIC CON 2015

The mad rush for New York Comic Con begins on May 13, when tickets go on sale for the October event (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

The mad rush for New York Comic Con begins on May 13, when tickets go on sale for the October event (photo by twi-ny/mdr)

Who: Spotlight Guests Jewel Staite, John Rhys-Davies, Adam Hughes, Chris Claremont, Greg Capullo, Masashi Kishimoto, Scott Snyder, Todd McFarlane, and John Rhys-Davies, Featured Guests Allison Sohn, Amy Reeder, Charles Soule, Terry Dodson, and many, many more to be announced
What: New York Comic Con
Where: Javits Center, 655 W 34th St. at 12th Ave.
When: October 8-11, single day $40-$50, three-day pass $75, four-day pass $105, tickets go on sale Wednesday, May 13, at 12 noon
Why: New York Comic Con continues its exponential growth as it reaches its tenth anniversary, making it harder and harder to get tickets, so there’s no time to waste if you want to go to the annual celebration of pop culture, with particular focuses on gaming, science fiction and fantasy books and films, anime, and all things comic-book-related. The four days, part of New York Super Week, are chock full of panel discussions, sneak-peek screenings, photo and autograph opportunities, book signings, and tons and tons of costumed fans. It’s getting so that those who come dressed in regular clothes are the minority. Tickets will go very quickly, so get yours now; don’t wait around until the big-time celebrity attendees are announced, as there will be plenty of major stars there to promote their latest work and smile for the camera with you.

HAUTE COUTURE ON FILM: HOW TO MARRY A MILLIONAIRE

how to marry a millionaire 2

CinéSalon: HOW TO MARRY A MILLIONAIRE (Jean Negulesco, 1953)
French Institute Alliance Française, Florence Gould Hall
55 East 59th St. between Madison & Park Aves.
Tuesday, May 12, $13, 4:00 & 7:30
Festival runs through May 26
212-355-6100
www.fiaf.org

Fox’s first CinemaScope romantic comedy, How to Marry a Millionaire, is not exactly a feminist’s dream, as a trio of gorgeous blonde models concoct a dubious plan to snare rich husbands in très chic 1950s Manhattan. Mastermind Schatze Page (Lauren Bacall), blind-as-a-bat Pola Debevoise (Marilyn Monroe), and far-from-genius Loco Dempsey (Betty Grable) move into a luxury Manhattan high-rise on Sutton Place when the previous tenant, Freddie Denmark (David Wayne), has to suddenly disappear because of tax problems. The three women are going for the gold, so Schatze refuses the constant attention of Tom Brookman (Cameron Mitchell), a man she thinks is a “gas pump jockey” but is actually one of the richest men in the city. Instead, she soon drapes herself all over aging widower and Texas cattleman J. D. Hanley (William Powell), while Loco goes away with married businessman Waldo Brewster (Fred Clark) and Pola takes up with mysterious oil baron J. Stewart Merrill (Alex D’Arcy). But no one ends up with who they brought to the dance in this outdated, old-fashioned, often annoying, yet still fun farce.

Marilyn Monroe, Betty Grable, and Lauren Bacall go wealthy husband hunting

Marilyn Monroe, Betty Grable, and Lauren Bacall go wealthy husband hunting in 1950s romantic comedy

Director Jean Negulesco (Humoresque, Johnny Belinda) tries to inject some class into the proceedings by beginning the film with Alfred Newman conducting the Twentieth Century-Fox Symphony Orchestra performing part of his score for the 1932 film Street Scene before the opening credits. Cinematographer Joseph MacDonald’s (My Darling Clementine, Pickup on South Street) camera lingers over shots of such iconic locations as Rockefeller Center, the George Washington Bridge, and the United Nations as Monroe, Grable, and Bacall seek out a ritzy future built on the wallets of men. Screenwriter producer Nunnally Johnson (The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit, The Three Faces of Eve), who based the story on two plays, Zoë Akins’s The Greeks Had a Word for It and Dale Eunson and Katherine Albert’s Loco, includes inside jokes for each of the three female stars, Bacall referencing husband Humphrey Bogart, Grable mentioning hubby Harry James, and Monroe being told that “diamonds are a girl’s best friend.” Just because the filmmakers know the premise is silly doesn’t excuse it for several ridiculous plot twists and its not-so-subtle misogyny. But it all looks great, especially the lead actresses, who are dressed to the nines in dazzling Christian Dior outfits that earned Charles LeMaire and Travilla an Oscar nomination for Best Costume Design (Color), so it is appropriate that How to Marry a Millionaire is screening in the French Institute Alliance Française CinéSalon series “Haute Couture on Film,” part of the larger “Fashion at FIAF” festival, being shown May 12 at 4:00 & 7:30; both presentations will be followed by a wine reception, and Wesleyan professor and All We Know: Three Lives author Lisa Cohen will introduce the later show. The series continues through May 26 with Luis Buñuel’s Belle de jour and Deborah Riley Draper’s Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution.